SOME BOATS ARE BIGGER THAN OTHERS

STOPS IN THE CANARIES:  After our aborted stops because of high winds we had three stops in the Canaries.  As we had been to these lovely island on earlier trips we skipped our booked tours.  However, each day I took a brief walk into town.  In many way SANTA CRUZ DE LA PALMA

SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE

and SAN SEBASTIAN DE LA  GOMERA

are similar towns, with lots tourists wandering around looking in the souvenir shops, and lots of locals drinking coffee or other things at sidewalk cafes.  One of things I liked about each town was that as you left the ship to walk to town there was a blue line on the pavement.  One followed the blue line with its twists and turns until the line ended at the town center.  Santa Cruz de La Palma has the best shopping and most of my shoes come from this town.  However, this time we stopped on Sunday and most of the shops were closed.

LU AND MIKE:  Ours good Antigonish friends Lu and Mike joined the cruise (along with 700 or 800 others) in San Sebastian.  This is their very first cruise and Betty and I are greatly enjoying seeing the ship with its food and entertainment through the eyes of first-time cruisers.   It has been a while since we had that excitement of such a great new adventure.

MORE ON CREDIT CARDS:  In an earlier blog I bemoaned Betty's having been pickpocketed in Barcelona and the fact that we no longer have any working credit cards.  Yesterday we wished to book a future cruise (Feb/27).   Booking on board gives a discount and booking a long while ahead allows us to secure our favorite stateroom.  Of course one must make a deposit, and that is a problem without a valid credit card.  Fortunately, Michael is currently acting as our banker.

THE NEXT FIVE DAYS:    We now have five sea days as we cross the Atlantic to Barbados.  We expect the weather to be warm and sunny, but the only things we expect to see from our balcony are sunrises and sunsets.

 LAS PALMAS DE GRAN CANARIA TO ARECIFE

We stopped in Las Palmas where I took a quick taxi to the old city, which seemed to be a very pleasant place.  As it was a long walk to the taxi stand Betty skipped going ashore.

We have met several interesting people on this cruise.  A couple of nights ago we were invited (along with another couple) to dinner at Toscana by Natalia, a member of the ship's management team.  Natalia is from Odessa and when Putin invaded she, her mother and her 17-year old son became refugees.  After being in several countries, Natalia's Mom semi-settled in Bulgaria.  Speaking five languages Natalia got a job as a sales clerk on a cruiseship.  While aboard she met a couple from Nova Scotia who became "her angels".  They sponsored her son for a student visa to Canada and he moved to Bridgewater and lived with this couple until he finished high school.  He is now in technical college.

Last night we had a great meal in the French restaurant Jacques, our favorite place on the Marina, as well as on several other ships of Oceania.   A couple of years ago Jacques was criticized as having slow service and having menus that were too elaborate.  On two of the new Oceania ships Jacques was abandoned and replaced by a casual steak place called Embers.  Passengers revolted and in less than a year Embers was razed and Jacques is now on all the new Oceania ships.  After dinner, we fortunately chose to attend the evening show, despite being skeptical of a concert combining a classical violinist and a flamenco dancer.  The show was fabulous.

When we sailed out of Las Palmas the intention was to go to Funchel, Madeira.  Again, due to high winds we found our port closed.  The ship sailed instead sailed to Arecife on the island of Lanzarote.  This was where we were supposed to go a couple of days ago, but the port was then closed.

Betty and I took a two-hour taxi ride around the island.  Lanzarote is mostly covered with lava from a volcano eruption that lasted for six years in the 18th century.  The island is doted by small white villages and has a real charm despite the landscape being mostly black.  Our driver was great and even stopped for us to have a taste of the local wine.

You can see from the second final picture of this blog where Betty likes to spend most of her time.  By booking a year or more in advance we can claim an extended balcony with both sitting chairs and lounge chairs.  Final picture is more lava on Lanzarote.

 BARCELONA:  The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

THE GOOD:  Getting from Antigonish to Barcelona took two days and we arrived tired, but without any serious issues.  After an Air Canada Economy flight to Montreal we were taken over by Oceania Cruises who flew us on Air France Business Class to Paris and ultimately Barcelona.  Oceania does not recognize Halifax as a real place and will only start a journey for Canadians in Montreal, Toronto or Vancouver.

This was our first flight on Air France, and the airline lived up to its reputation.  We started our flight with a 6-course dinner (featuring lobster as the main course).  I accompanied my meal with two glasses of Champagne and then four glasses of Cigalus (ordered because it was new to me).  I later learned that it can be purchased for a princely sum at the Port in Halifax, but my French wine loving kids will not be able to get it at LCBO.  The only complaint I had is that the plane flew too fast and there was not enough time for sleeping post dinner.

We checked in to our boutique hotel overlooking La Ramblas and took a taxi to a presumably famous pizza place where we met our good friends Teresa, Josep and Pol.  The pizza was tasty but somewhat different than what I usually get at The Wheel in Antigonish.  My pizza, for example was topped with smoked pork belly, roasted potatoes and slices of giant capers.

The next day Josep and Pol returned to the Pyrenees but Teresa stayed behind for an evening with us that started with tapas, before going to the spectacularly beautiful Palais Di Musica for a performance with the Tokyo Symphony.  In addition to a Stravinsky Symphony we were treated to a Tchaikovsky Concerto with guest violinist Maxim Vengerov (considered by many to be the world's best living string player.)

THE BAD:  After arriving in Barcelona we had almost an hour wait for a "golf cart" to take us a very great distance to luggage pickup.  By the time we got there only Betty's suitcase was on the carousel, and not her walker.  Eventually I found my way to "lost luggage" and the woman there determined that the walker had arrived in Barcelona but she had no idea where is was.  Betty's wheelchair pusher and I searched for almost an hour before discovering it at carousel 14C, despite the fact that the luggage from our flight arrived at carousel 7.

Before going to the Palais di Musica on Thursday I wanted a shave and a shower.  No hot water in our room so I went out with a scruffy face and a body lathered in deodorant.  This was not before discovering that the elevator was not working.  Fortunately two large, strong hotel guests assisted Betty down the 89 steps to street level.

THE UGLY:  Just before the non-shower I got an e-mail from Home Trust saying there were fraudulent charges on my Visa.  Turns out that Betty was missing her credit cards and bank card from her purse.  We don't know when she was "pick pocketed" as we were never in any crowds.  The card got cancelled, but we didn't know if our other Visa account was compromised.  I didn't want to cancel that card as we needed a credit card to board the ship.  I found this experience quite stressful.  By morning I had become very familiar with each line and nook in our room's ceiling.

However, when we got to the ship they didn't need a card as they had been a credit card number from an earlier questionnaire.  I didn't inform them that that card is now cancelled.

We boarded the Marina just before lunch to begin our 26th cruise.  A couple of glasses of California Merlot at lunch and we are now ready to sail but without Betty's cane and glasses, presumably both at the hotel.

                         LAST DAYS OF THIS CRUISE

FINAL PORTS:   We docked in Belize at a private island owned by the cruise company.  Although the beach and pool area were very nice, the temperature was very hot, so I beat a hasty retreat back to the ship.

At our stop in Roatan, Honduras I took a tour of the island which included a sail over the coral reef in a semi-submersible boat.  Quite beautiful.

Our final port was to have been Costa Maya, Mexico.  However, the swells were larger than the Captain wanted in order to dock, so we skipped that stop.

DINNER COMPANIONS:   For our final meal at Polo Grill we were joined by two brothers (aged 24 and 33).  They were on their first cruise.  A client of the older brother, a real estate broker in Beverly Hills, had given them a penthouse suite in appreciation of what must have been a very large sale.

Near the end of the cruise we were invited to a dinner party hosted by Dominic, the ship's general manager.  The table included 3 of Dominic's senior officers and 5 passengers, including Betty and me.  As Dominic is from Brittany, France I expected that we would be served French wines.  However, he commented that French wines were too thin to serve to guests.  

The meal and table conversation were great.  However, one of the guests choked on a piece of veal.  Dominic's attempt at the Heinrich maneuver failed to dislodge the bit of meat.  Fortunately, the large and strong head of food and beverage services (also at our table) was quickly successful.  I expect the guy's ribs were a bit sore the next day.

The final picture shows Betty perusing the menu at Toscana, the ship's Italian restaurant.

WORKING OUR WAY HOME:    We disembarked this morning and found our way to a Miami Beach hotel, where we will spend the night.  Upon arrival I tripped and whapped my head on a marble table.  Lots and lots of blood, and despite my protests an ambulance was called.  However, Betty had managed to stop the bleeding by the time the emergency people arrived and I was left to my own medications.

Tomorrow we will fly back to Bangor.  I mentioned in an earlier blog that the exhaust system failed on my ancient car while driving down I-95.  Through the help of an old colleague from the StFX Board of Governors I have an appointment at at repair shop the next morning.  Hopefully, they can bandage up the car to the point we can drive back to Antigonish.

                                                    QUIET CRUISING

ROSEAU DOMINICA:  This small town was quite pleasant for a walking tour, with some decent local crafts.  However, as we had toured the island before, I returned to the ship after a bit of exercise.

ST JOHN'S ANTIGUA:  This was our last stop before returning to Miami for the first time; after which there is another 8 days of cruising before coming back to Miami for final departure. 

As there were four large ships in port the streets were busy.  Lots of high end shops for those so inclined.  My only purchase was a package of cough drops.

  

SHIPS IN PORT:  While in St. John's we were tightly docked between a Viking ship and one of Virgin Voyages new ships.  We had been on that Viking ship on an earlier cruise and remember fondly the "parking lot" for walkers and wheelchairs that was just outside the main dining room.

I think the clientele on the Viking ship is a little different from that on Virgin (appropriately named???).  Virgin Voyages is aimed at a younger crowd and reviews suggest that the entertainment is "raunchy".  Apparently after the evening show, but before the late night party, they hand out condoms.   For almost one-half hour I watched several hundred guests getting on and off the 2700 passenger ship.  It appears that on that particular cruise all of the passengers were men.

CRUISE BUSINESS:  During the pandemic the cruise business suffered greatly with some lines declaring bankruptcy.  Now, however, business is booming.   A couple of days ago I booked a cruise for March, 2027.  I managed to get the last cabin in the category that we prefer.  At a function that night an announcement was made for a 242 day world cruise on the ship on which we are currently sailing.  For the wealthy, who book "owner's suites" and "penthouse suites", they were told that it was expected that those suites would sell out on the first day of the offering.

SHIPBOARD CREDITS:  Passengers are awarded shipboard credits that can be used for onboard purchases.  The amount of credits one is given depends on several factors.  As a platinum member of Oceania Cruises I get quite a bit of spendable money.  As I own a few shares in the cruiseline I get more credits.  The downside of this system is that the credits must be spent before disembarking.  We have trouble using our credits as we don't use the casino, our wine is already included, and the clothes in the boutiques are several sizes smaller than either of us.

However, we signed up for a Cellar Master's Classic Lunch which cost $ 500. had it been paid for rather than using credits.   The Luncheon was limited to 30 people and it sold out very quickly.

We started with a glass of Kir Royale, and then our first course was Cavier & Sour Cream on Toast.  This was paired with a Krug Brut Champagne from Reims.

The second course was Burrata with Black Truffle.  This was accompanied by a Louis Latour, Meursault from Burgundy.

The third course was a Twice-Baked Lobster Souffle paired with a Silver Trident "Benevolent Dictator" Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, California.

I guess one would call the next course the main.  It was Roasted Chateaubriand paired with Ornellaia Bolgheri DOC Superiore, a Super Tuscan.

The cheese course was paired with Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  Sorry, no picture!

Finally, for dessert we had Raspberry Caramelized Mille-feuille with Madagascan vanilla cream.  The accompanying wine was a Far Niente Dolce from Napa Valley.

After I got back to the room I priced some of these wines at LCBO.  You don't even want to know.

I'm guessing that dinner may be skipped this evening.

                                      ISLANDS AND GOOD WEATHER

ST. LUCIA:  On Sunday we docked at Castries, St. Lucia.  The tour we had booked seemed a bit above Betty's mobility, so she stayed on board and I headed out for a 5 and 1/2 hour tour.  I climbed in the back of an extended Jeep along with 13 others.  We drove for over two hours across the island.  Fortunately there were seatbelts or we would all have been thrown out at any of the sharp curves. 

The island had some natural beauty, but also lots of garbage, abandoned cars and rather poor housing. 

We transferred to a catamaran and were joined by 50 or 60 others.  After a short swimming stop we viewed the Piton Mtns and then we sailed back to the ship. 

Rock music was played at ear-shattering volume, and the two-hour sail seemed like two weeks.  There were some passengers, however, who seemed to enjoy the ear-damaging decibels, so perhaps I am two much of a curmudgeon. 

GRENADA:  Monday we docked at St. George's and I was surprised how different Grenada was than St. Lucia. 

 I did a walking tour of the city and found it spotlessly clean.  A government travel guide took me to see Halifax street, since I was from Nova Scotia.  I bought some spices from a 100 year-old woman working in the market.

EATING:  We continue to enjoy the wonderful food; definitely a step-up from Viking.  The picture was taken at Red Ginger, the onboard Asian restaurant. 

I am not a big Asian food fan, but the Lobster Pad Thai was a sensation.  Most nights we share a table with American guests.  The first night I almost fled when I was welcomed as someone from the 51st state; then I realized that a joke was being made.  Everyone, so far, is strongly anti-Trump and I hope that continues.  Perhaps Oceania cruises are a little too sophisticated for Republicans.    

PLUMA IBERICO DE BELLOTA:    On Tuesday night we ate at the Polo Grill, one of the specialty restaurants on board.  It is a very nice steak and lobster place.  To my astonishment the menu included a special "Pluma Iberico de Bellota", a delicacy of which I have only read.  It requires a bit of an explanation.

First, there is a very special breed of long-legged pigs in Spain called Iberico.  The best of these pigs come from Bellota.  The pigs are not caged but allowed to roam freely (walking up to 8 miles per day) and are fed exclusively on a diet of acorns.  I have had Iberico ham on a few occasions and it is the best ham in the world.

Pluma is a feather shaped fresh cut of steak that comes from the shoulder of the pig.  There are only two small pieces of pluma (totaling about one pound of meat) on each Iberico pig.  The original name for this cut was called "Butcher's Secret" because the butchers never sold the meat, instead saving it for their own personal consumption.   

  

Pluma Iberico is very expensive and is definitely not found in Sobey's or Atlantic Superstore.  It is possible to order this meat from Amazon.com (but not Amazon.ca).  They sell it in 2 oz. portions ($ 135.00 per pound.)

I regret to inform those of you who live in Antigonish, that Pluma Iberico is NOT being planned for the next dinner party at 9 Wedgewood Drive.                                        

                                                    OCEANIA VISTA   

 When we finally boarded our ship on Wednesday we were thirsty, hungry and most of all exhausted.  With difficulty we managed to stay awake for our dinner reservation at Ember, a new restaurant that on Vista replaced Jacques, our favorite.  The reviews were mixed but mostly referring to its noisiness.  It was in fact noisy enough that we had trouble communicating with the Sommelier (worse than not communicating with the waiter).  However, the food was more than excellent.  I followed a Maine lobster roll with a foie gras sauced steak that was a little larger than necessary.

The Vista is a brand new ship and very elegant although similar in layout to other Oceania boats.

For the first couple of days we have done nothing but eat and sleep.  On Thursday we had lunch at the pool-side grill.  The picture shows our burgers made from Wagyu beef and lobster medallions.  The downside of lunching at this location is that you are poolside and thus the wine is served in plastic glasses.

Here are a couple more pictures of places to eat including the casual cafe and the main dining room.

There are lectures each sea day and the next picture was taken just before I fell asleep and missed whatever edifying stuff to which I should have attended.

BALCONIES:   Almost all staterooms on cruiseships have balconies, but they are only large enough for a couple of chairs and a small table.  On some Oceania ships there are a very small number of extended balconies at the front of the ship.  They need to be reserved well in advance although some avoid that because of the myth that the front of the ship has bumpy sailing.  In addition to the regular furniture one can have two lounge chairs.

St. Barts:  This morning we tendered at the French island named after Christopher Columbus' older brother.  During colonial times the island was mostly ignored because it lacked natural resources.  In this century it was discovered by the rich and famous.  Now only the wealthy have the right kind of boats and the money to build an estate.  Casinos, large hotels and fast-food restaurants are banned.  The main street has only designer shops and as one might expect everything is very expensive.  I passed a sidewalk eatery and observed that they offered burgers for only 25 Euros.