BUENOS AIRES

                                                        BUENOS AIRES

 We are off on a new adventure and will be away for the next month.  I'll send you blogs over that period.  Our recent trips have had a few "adventures" and this one may be no different, although our struggles may have started a tad earlier.  Just before we left I discovered a leak in the roof of our bedroom addition, which is my closet.  I chopped 10 inches of solid ice off but it is still leaking.  Friends are emptying the water bucket while we are away.  In the basement I found that the main drainage pipe had split.  I only had time for a temporary fix before we had to leave.

The hardest part of taking a cruise is the stamina required to fly to the first port.  We drove to the airport to find that the parking lot was full.  I had to leave the car in the expensive indoor lot, so Michael and Lu will need a bank loan in order to rescue the car upon their return from Korea.  After flying to Toronto we found that our next flight was delayed.  After sitting for 6 hours we boarded our 10-hour flight to Sao Paulo.  We were so late leaving that dinner was served a 1:30 a.m.  At Sao Paulo we had to leave the plane and go through security before re-boarding for our 3-hour flight to Buenos Aires.

We were met by our pre-arranged driver (Pablo) who took us the 35 kms into the city.  We checked into our lovely boutique hotel in Recoleta (our favorite area of Buenos Aires). 

Exhausted, we wanted to find a restaurant within Betty's very short walking distance.  The closest one did not have an Argentinian menu.  The next restaurant had a lovely orchestra playing, but there were no tables left.  The third place had one table in their sidewalk section.  We only wanted Argentinian steaks, but by the time we had consumed complimentary gazpacho, a magnificent pate and some delicious rice balls we were only able to eat half our magnificent steaks (so much better than Canadian beef).  I wanted a bottle of Malbec and poured over the pages of choice.  I thought I was losing it when I reopened the list as the waiter approached and the wine I had chosen was no longer there.  I eventually realized that I had been looking in the pages of Mendosa Malbecs and now I was in the Malbecs from some other section of Argentina.  A small cultural difference was that every table in our section of the restaurant had at least one bottle of wine on it.  No beers, cokes, or other awful drinks that you would find in a Canadian restaurant.

After a good night sleep I headed out to find a hardware store as Betty's walker needed a little fixing.  I did find a hardware store but they did not have what I needed.  Fortunately I came across a construction site and with a little my pilfering the walker should make it through the trip.

On our second night we ate at another great restaurant.  The picture shows what I got when I ordered empanadas as an appetizer.  If you notice the drinks glasses I think you can assume those women were tourists. 

 

Argentinians love dogs and beef.  Where else would one come across a store selling only steak knives?

On our second full day in Buenos Aires Pablo picked us and took us on a great city tour.  The first picture is of the Pink Palace  where Eva Peron spoke, but did not sing "Don't cry for me, Argentina".

                                                        CROSSING THE ATLANTIC

We had five beautiful days for our crossing from the Canaries to Barbados.  The weather was sunny, the seas were calm and the temperatures ranged from the high 20's to the low 30's.  The sun was on our deck each morning making it too hot to sit outside.  However, the afternoons were great for reading and sleeping.  This picture shows early risers having breakfast outside.

Our livers seem to be surviving although we are giving them vigorous workouts.  Betty and I attended a Cellar Masters luncheon (using up most of our shipboard credits) which started with a glass of Kir Royale and then 6 very expensive, rare wines were matched with a six-course meal.  Although this was a wine-tasting the sommeliers filled your glasses like you were dying of thirst.

 Lu and Mike have a drinks package that includes cocktails in all the bars.  They seem to be challenged to try all of them (an impossible task unless one were on an around the world cruise).

There is lots to do on sea days.  Here is a picture of Lu and Mike participating in a spice identification contest at a country fair held on the pool deck.  Then a couple of pictures from a fashion show in the Atrium.

Everyone on board is spoiled.  Betty completed a mid-cruise questionnaire in which she complained that the shampoo bottles were hard to squeeze with her arthritic hands.  A few hours later new toilitries appeared on our bed and then the head housekeeper knocked on our door and asked if these were satisfactory.

Our first stop on the American side of the Atlantic was Barbados.  This is an island of beaches, and many passengers spend the day on one or the other.  Instead, Lu, Mike and I walked the mile into the city of Bridgetown, a not very pretty or interesting place. 

 It was very hot so part way through our walk we took a respite in an air-conditioned grocery store.  The prices made this stop interesting.  It is cheaper to buy a bottle of rum than a stick of deoderant.  Apparently, in the time of the very rich plantation owners, it was common to bathe in a tub filled with rum.  Hence the expression "Don't drink the bathwater".

A more interesting stop was in St. John's, the capital of Antigua and Barbuda.  Although the city was ordinary, the countryside was beautiful.  Here are pictures of Nelson's Dockyard and Eric Clapton's house.

Our final stop before heading back to Miami and home was in San Juan, Puerto Rico.  San Juan is a clean, colorful city.  Lu, Mike and I walked the hot mile into the old city.  However, there were 4 cruise ships docked in the port (totaling over 14000 passengers) so it was more like pushing your way through the crowds than taking a leisurely stroll

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I thought I would end this blog with a picture from inside one of the ship's Men's Rooms.  After all when did you last get a picture from someone's john?  As the picture shows, there are lots of carefully rolled towels with which to wash your hands.

                                           SOME BOATS ARE BIGGER THAN OTHERS

STOPS IN THE CANARIES:  After our aborted stops because of high winds we had three stops in the Canaries.  As we had been to these lovely island on earlier trips we skipped our booked tours.  However, each day I took a brief walk into town.  In many way SANTA CRUZ DE LA PALMA

SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE

and SAN SEBASTIAN DE LA  GOMERA

are similar towns, with lots tourists wandering around looking in the souvenir shops, and lots of locals drinking coffee or other things at sidewalk cafes.  One of things I liked about each town was that as you left the ship to walk to town there was a blue line on the pavement.  One followed the blue line with its twists and turns until the line ended at the town center.  Santa Cruz de La Palma has the best shopping and most of my shoes come from this town.  However, this time we stopped on Sunday and most of the shops were closed.

LU AND MIKE:  Ours good Antigonish friends Lu and Mike joined the cruise (along with 700 or 800 others) in San Sebastian.  This is their very first cruise and Betty and I are greatly enjoying seeing the ship with its food and entertainment through the eyes of first-time cruisers.   It has been a while since we had that excitement of such a great new adventure.

MORE ON CREDIT CARDS:  In an earlier blog I bemoaned Betty's having been pickpocketed in Barcelona and the fact that we no longer have any working credit cards.  Yesterday we wished to book a future cruise (Feb/27).   Booking on board gives a discount and booking a long while ahead allows us to secure our favorite stateroom.  Of course one must make a deposit, and that is a problem without a valid credit card.  Fortunately, Michael is currently acting as our banker.

THE NEXT FIVE DAYS:    We now have five sea days as we cross the Atlantic to Barbados.  We expect the weather to be warm and sunny, but the only things we expect to see from our balcony are sunrises and sunsets.

 LAS PALMAS DE GRAN CANARIA TO ARECIFE

We stopped in Las Palmas where I took a quick taxi to the old city, which seemed to be a very pleasant place.  As it was a long walk to the taxi stand Betty skipped going ashore.

We have met several interesting people on this cruise.  A couple of nights ago we were invited (along with another couple) to dinner at Toscana by Natalia, a member of the ship's management team.  Natalia is from Odessa and when Putin invaded she, her mother and her 17-year old son became refugees.  After being in several countries, Natalia's Mom semi-settled in Bulgaria.  Speaking five languages Natalia got a job as a sales clerk on a cruiseship.  While aboard she met a couple from Nova Scotia who became "her angels".  They sponsored her son for a student visa to Canada and he moved to Bridgewater and lived with this couple until he finished high school.  He is now in technical college.

Last night we had a great meal in the French restaurant Jacques, our favorite place on the Marina, as well as on several other ships of Oceania.   A couple of years ago Jacques was criticized as having slow service and having menus that were too elaborate.  On two of the new Oceania ships Jacques was abandoned and replaced by a casual steak place called Embers.  Passengers revolted and in less than a year Embers was razed and Jacques is now on all the new Oceania ships.  After dinner, we fortunately chose to attend the evening show, despite being skeptical of a concert combining a classical violinist and a flamenco dancer.  The show was fabulous.

When we sailed out of Las Palmas the intention was to go to Funchel, Madeira.  Again, due to high winds we found our port closed.  The ship sailed instead sailed to Arecife on the island of Lanzarote.  This was where we were supposed to go a couple of days ago, but the port was then closed.

Betty and I took a two-hour taxi ride around the island.  Lanzarote is mostly covered with lava from a volcano eruption that lasted for six years in the 18th century.  The island is doted by small white villages and has a real charm despite the landscape being mostly black.  Our driver was great and even stopped for us to have a taste of the local wine.

You can see from the second final picture of this blog where Betty likes to spend most of her time.  By booking a year or more in advance we can claim an extended balcony with both sitting chairs and lounge chairs.  Final picture is more lava on Lanzarote.

 BARCELONA:  The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

THE GOOD:  Getting from Antigonish to Barcelona took two days and we arrived tired, but without any serious issues.  After an Air Canada Economy flight to Montreal we were taken over by Oceania Cruises who flew us on Air France Business Class to Paris and ultimately Barcelona.  Oceania does not recognize Halifax as a real place and will only start a journey for Canadians in Montreal, Toronto or Vancouver.

This was our first flight on Air France, and the airline lived up to its reputation.  We started our flight with a 6-course dinner (featuring lobster as the main course).  I accompanied my meal with two glasses of Champagne and then four glasses of Cigalus (ordered because it was new to me).  I later learned that it can be purchased for a princely sum at the Port in Halifax, but my French wine loving kids will not be able to get it at LCBO.  The only complaint I had is that the plane flew too fast and there was not enough time for sleeping post dinner.

We checked in to our boutique hotel overlooking La Ramblas and took a taxi to a presumably famous pizza place where we met our good friends Teresa, Josep and Pol.  The pizza was tasty but somewhat different than what I usually get at The Wheel in Antigonish.  My pizza, for example was topped with smoked pork belly, roasted potatoes and slices of giant capers.

The next day Josep and Pol returned to the Pyrenees but Teresa stayed behind for an evening with us that started with tapas, before going to the spectacularly beautiful Palais Di Musica for a performance with the Tokyo Symphony.  In addition to a Stravinsky Symphony we were treated to a Tchaikovsky Concerto with guest violinist Maxim Vengerov (considered by many to be the world's best living string player.)

THE BAD:  After arriving in Barcelona we had almost an hour wait for a "golf cart" to take us a very great distance to luggage pickup.  By the time we got there only Betty's suitcase was on the carousel, and not her walker.  Eventually I found my way to "lost luggage" and the woman there determined that the walker had arrived in Barcelona but she had no idea where is was.  Betty's wheelchair pusher and I searched for almost an hour before discovering it at carousel 14C, despite the fact that the luggage from our flight arrived at carousel 7.

Before going to the Palais di Musica on Thursday I wanted a shave and a shower.  No hot water in our room so I went out with a scruffy face and a body lathered in deodorant.  This was not before discovering that the elevator was not working.  Fortunately two large, strong hotel guests assisted Betty down the 89 steps to street level.

THE UGLY:  Just before the non-shower I got an e-mail from Home Trust saying there were fraudulent charges on my Visa.  Turns out that Betty was missing her credit cards and bank card from her purse.  We don't know when she was "pick pocketed" as we were never in any crowds.  The card got cancelled, but we didn't know if our other Visa account was compromised.  I didn't want to cancel that card as we needed a credit card to board the ship.  I found this experience quite stressful.  By morning I had become very familiar with each line and nook in our room's ceiling.

However, when we got to the ship they didn't need a card as they had been a credit card number from an earlier questionnaire.  I didn't inform them that that card is now cancelled.

We boarded the Marina just before lunch to begin our 26th cruise.  A couple of glasses of California Merlot at lunch and we are now ready to sail but without Betty's cane and glasses, presumably both at the hotel.

                         LAST DAYS OF THIS CRUISE

FINAL PORTS:   We docked in Belize at a private island owned by the cruise company.  Although the beach and pool area were very nice, the temperature was very hot, so I beat a hasty retreat back to the ship.

At our stop in Roatan, Honduras I took a tour of the island which included a sail over the coral reef in a semi-submersible boat.  Quite beautiful.

Our final port was to have been Costa Maya, Mexico.  However, the swells were larger than the Captain wanted in order to dock, so we skipped that stop.

DINNER COMPANIONS:   For our final meal at Polo Grill we were joined by two brothers (aged 24 and 33).  They were on their first cruise.  A client of the older brother, a real estate broker in Beverly Hills, had given them a penthouse suite in appreciation of what must have been a very large sale.

Near the end of the cruise we were invited to a dinner party hosted by Dominic, the ship's general manager.  The table included 3 of Dominic's senior officers and 5 passengers, including Betty and me.  As Dominic is from Brittany, France I expected that we would be served French wines.  However, he commented that French wines were too thin to serve to guests.  

The meal and table conversation were great.  However, one of the guests choked on a piece of veal.  Dominic's attempt at the Heinrich maneuver failed to dislodge the bit of meat.  Fortunately, the large and strong head of food and beverage services (also at our table) was quickly successful.  I expect the guy's ribs were a bit sore the next day.

The final picture shows Betty perusing the menu at Toscana, the ship's Italian restaurant.

WORKING OUR WAY HOME:    We disembarked this morning and found our way to a Miami Beach hotel, where we will spend the night.  Upon arrival I tripped and whapped my head on a marble table.  Lots and lots of blood, and despite my protests an ambulance was called.  However, Betty had managed to stop the bleeding by the time the emergency people arrived and I was left to my own medications.

Tomorrow we will fly back to Bangor.  I mentioned in an earlier blog that the exhaust system failed on my ancient car while driving down I-95.  Through the help of an old colleague from the StFX Board of Governors I have an appointment at at repair shop the next morning.  Hopefully, they can bandage up the car to the point we can drive back to Antigonish.