Saturday, October 18, 2014

Black Sea Blog # 2


FROM VARNA TO SOCHI

BULGARIA DAY TWO:  We tendered off Varna (3rd largest city) and drove north to the town of Balchik.  Unfortunately we stopped just short of the Tracian Cliffs Golf Course which I would have loved to see as Golf Canada Magazine rated it as one of the 10 best golf courses in the world.

We did a lot of usual tourist stops.  One of the more interesting ones was a visit to Queen Mary of Romania’s summer palace.  The part of Bulgaria around Balchik was ceded to the Romanians after WWI and the Queen (grand-daughter of Victoria, daughter of Tzar Alexander) spent most of her time there.  After her death in 1938 her heart was buried at the Palace but when war broke out the Bulgarians joined the Axis powers allowing them to get their land back from the Romanians.  The heart was returned to Romania.

After we finished up with the museums and churches 12 of our travelling companions wimped out and returned to the ship.  However, the Hanlon’s and Johnson’s decided to spend a little time walking around the beach/shopping part of Varna.  I should say the Hanlon’s walked around while the Johnson’s took refuge in a sidewalk café.  We ordered delicious lunches of salads, with sides of prosciutto, deep-fried mushrooms, tapenade, sardines, etc., as well as ½ bottle of a Malbec blend.  When the wine came the waiter gestured for Betty to try it.  I almost laughed as I wondered (given we had no Bulgarian currency, no language skills and had ordered the wine randomly) how bad it would have had to be for Betty to have sent it back.  In fact, the wine was excellent and I wished we had ordered a full bottle.  In any event the total bill which, went on a credit card, came to the equivalent of $19.

SEA DAY:  The sail from Varna to Sochi takes two nights and one day which gives a break from touring.  The relaxing day included lying by the pool, a Captain’s Club cocktail party and eventually attempting to squeeze into my tux for a formal night dinner.  In the morning we attended an interesting lecture by an Anthropologist (clearly not from StFX) who talked about Russian culture and values.  We learned that in Russia if offered a vodka, or any other alcoholic drink, there are acceptable responses and non-acceptable responses.  The best response is:  “thank you very much”.  Also acceptable is “no thanks, my liver is failing and I am waiting for a transplant.”  Not acceptable is a simple “no thanks”.  That response is interpreted as meaning that you are untrustworthy and that there should be no further social interaction.

SOCHI DAY ONE:  Sochi is the southernmost city in Russia and the most favored resort area because of the miles of beaches and the warm/hot weather in the summer.  Also, of course, there are the nearby ski mountains for winter vacations.  Sochi was first developed as a resort area by Stalin in the 30’s.  The city was also favored by Yeltsin and now it is where Putin makes his home.  In the summer the normal temperatures are near 40 degrees and in the winter the temperature still reaches 15 most days.

It was 17 degrees when we disembarked but by the time we got to the Olympic ski slopes and took the 40 minute cable car ride to the top (and another 40 minute ride back down) it had dropped to freezing and the snowfall kept us from enjoying the views.

Sochi is quite a lovely city on the sea, and with the mountains in the background it reminded me a bit of Vancouver.  However, it is cleaner than our west coast city and the new and architecturally interesting buildings give it a fresher feeling.  Of course, much of the city (roads, hotels, etc.) was built in the 7 years leading up to the Olympics.  In fact, it is staggering to believe that so much construction could have been completed in such a relatively short period.  The Olympic village is immense with stadium after stadium.

At lunch we were taken to a 5-star hotel where the food was very good and interestingly enough the accompanying wine was from Chile.

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