Parintins to Devil's Island

PARINTINS, BRAZIL

SHOPPING: Our last stop on the Amazon was at the island city of Parintins. This is a city of 100,000, and as there was apparently not a great deal to see, and as we didn't have any tours arranged it turned out to be a shopping day. Now, walking the streets of a strange, rather 3rd world city, carrying several parcels with the temperature at 96 degrees, is a fair challenge. However, it was made somewhat easier as there were sidewalk beer stops where for about the equivalent of $ 1.60 Canadian one could get a double-sized bottle of ice cold local beer.

When we got off our tender boat we noticed lots of young people in white uniforms (they turned out be boy scouts there to assist the tourists). We visited several stores that took credit cards but eventually Betty found one item that she desperately wanted at a sidewalk vendor who didn't take cards. Since we were unable to find an ATM we walked back to the port and Betty asked, in sign language, a young scout for help. He proceeded to walk with her for several blocks to a bank with ATM's. I hope he earned a badge for his efforts.

FOOD ON THE REGATTA: Oceania prides itself on its food and it is certainly superior to that of the other 3 cruiselines with which we have sailed. With a certain amount of discipliine I have been avoiding the all day ice cream stand, the all day milkshake stand, afternoon tea, the poolside grill that continuously offers Kobe burgers and lobster sandwiches, and the coffee shop that has all-day sweets. Even so my shirts seem to be shrinking. An example of the problem was the other night when eating in one of the specialty restaurants. Betty ordered a Maine lobster for her entree. Asked if she wanted the lobster steamed or grilled she had trouble deciding. The problem was resolved as they simply brought her one of each.

FRESH WATER OCEAN: The outflow of the Amazon is so great that the water is still fresh 100 miles out to sea. When we awoke this morning (Nov. 19) we had already left the river and were far enough in the Atlantic that we could no longer see any land. However, the water was still the brown fresh water from the river. Eventually we came to a clear line where we crossed from the brown fresh water to the blue salt water.

ILES DU SALUT: On Friday morning we anchored off Devil's Island, one of three small islands that make up the Islands of Salvation, which are about 6 miles off the coast of French Guiana. These beautiful islands were turned into a giant hellhole by Napoleon III who made them into a penal colony in 1852. For almost 100 years the French sent their criminals and their political prisoners to these islands to be worked to death, or to die from disease, or to commit suicide. Most of you have heard of the two most famous of the colony's inmates; that is Alfred Dreyfus and Papillon.

As Betty and I visited here a few years ago we didn't spend much time exploring the jail cells, etc. Rather we walked around the periphery of the island and were entertained by families of capuchin monkeys. We also saw huge parrots and many agoutis (a strange animal the size of a small dog but without any tail). As it was a clear day we could see across to the mainland and get glimpses of rocket silos that are part of the European Space Center.

QUIET SATURDAY: We skipped breakfast in favor of Saturday brunch. Prior to that we attended a lecture on the origins of the universe. Our brilliant lecturer, who is a radiation physicist, has given amusing talks on everything from pirates to alligators and today he gave what I assumed to be the talk he always wanted to give.

Brunch was delightful. What could be better than matching salmon with a glass of petit syrah, while watching the sea go by; then having crepes suzette and coffee while listening to a string quartet. This afternoon I am going to take in a movie while Betty does her thing by the pool.