MADAGASCAR TO TANZANIA

SEA DAYS:  It has been more than two weeks since we left Antigonish and it seems that we have been going more-or-less flat out since then.  Thus, we were most pleased to have two "sea days" on our way from Mozambique to Madagascar.  On Friday morning we slept in very late and missed breakfast in all the locations.  We did manage to make an 11:00 a.m. lecture by Vern Lundquist (CBS sports announcer).  This was his first of four talks and he was very amusing, with tales of working with Terry Bradshaw.  He also told some Nick Faldo stories.  He spoke for an hour without any notes, and the guy is 76.  Next week he is going to talk about his times working with Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods.  In the afternoon we attended an academic-style  talk on Putin--not so funny--but informative just the same.

We ran into a storm facing 40 knot winds; sea being very rough.  The ship got behind schedule because the stablizers slowed us down.  The Captain said that in the night he would take in the stablizers and try to gain some speed.  Sleep is best in the middle of the bed.

MADAGASCAR:  On Sunday we made it to Nosy Be, a large "resort" island that is part of Madagascar.  We were tendered in to the small city of Hellville (no I did not make that up) where we met up with our driver/guide and van for a half-day tour of the island.

Nosy Be is spectularly beautiful with mountains and shimmering lakes (albeit filled with crocodiles). However, it is definitely 3rd world.  As we drove through the main street of Hellville the van dodged cattle, sheep and goats.  Almost all of the housing appears to be one room huts with thatched roofs and bamboo walls.  Despite that the people seemed to be very well dressed.

We saw lots of lemurs, and some beautiful chameleon, etc.  Part way around the island we drove to the top of Mount Passot where we had great vistas.  Our guide asked if anyone wanted a "pit" stop and the four women started down a steep path toward an outhouse with a hole in the floor.   A couple of the men started to follow the women when the guide said:  "No, the men piss here", so like schoolboys we lined up at the side of the path and aimed for the jungle.  Before we got back in the van we were all given a large shot of local rum.

We stopped at a market on our return to the ship where we saw fresh meat swarming with flies and crabs nestled down in mud pools at the back.

In order to go ashore at Hellville (actually named for a Frenchman with the surname of Hell) we skipped lunch.  Thus, last night's dinner of frog legs, liquor-soaked melons, coq-au-vin, and petit fours was very, very tasty.  Needlesstosay my two glasses of Albarino and four glasses of Petit Sirah didn't taste bad either.  Our wine is included in the cost of the cruise so I am trying very hard to drink my share.

DANGEROUS WATERS:   As we are now sailing toward Tanzania and then on to Kenya (which borders Somalia) we will soon be entering Pirate waters.  This morning we had a Pirate drill, which seemed to consist of heading to the stairwells.  The crew have now installed firehoses on the fifth deck, which is an open deck.   Passengers will not be allowed there during the evenings until we are again in safe waters.

DAR ES SALAAM:  This morning we docked in Dar es Salaam, a large port city of 4.5 million, most of whom do not have indoor plumbing.  It was one of the few places for which we were unable to find an interesting tour.  It also has the reputation for being a pretty tough place.

Taxis are not allowed on the port but there was a shuttle which took us to the Hyatt Regency  Hotel, from where one could walk around a bit or take a cab if there were someplace one wanted to go.  When our bus got to the hotel it was not allowed to enter the grounds until the undercarriage was examined for bombs.  We didn't go in to the hotel itself but noticed that there were airport-style luggage x-ray machines at the entrance.  We walked for a bit in the heat (33 degrees) and made it as far as a smelly fish market.   Our shuttle bus took a different route on the way back to the port and we travelled along a shopping street.  Happy to stay on the bus.

The ship was very inviting and I was happy to have lunch  by the pool (a rare steak and a lobster tail paired with Mexican beer).